WORD PAINTINGS #149 - PROGRESS NOT PERFECTION

WORD PAINTINGS #149 (How I Came to New Mexico and Learned about Art and Life) - PROGRESS NOT PERFECTION

14 May 2025 (Llano Quemado, New Mexico -

You could say that I'm a Dreamer - but I'm not the only one!  My forevertime favorite poem "Dreamkeeper" by Langston Hughes....

Bring me all of your dreams
You dreamer.
Bring me all of your
Heart melodies
That I may wrap them
In a blue-cloud cloth
Away from the rough fingers
Of the world.

Went crazy ordering art supplies this week - this is only a small part of my panic attack purchases!  Of course the White House eliminated a good portion of their nutso tariffs on China after I went berserk!!!  Will try to paint faster from now on - too bad I can't take them with me when I go to that Big Easel in the Sky! 

Big Dreams! Had to remove some parts from my large studio easel raising up the 60"x36" canvas so I can paint the lower third...this piece has challenged me in more ways than one - am a little shorter than I used to be!  A tornado of activity in the studio and my living area - many underpaintings, gessoing several new canvases, reorganizing my workspace and the house at the same time is daunting! Confusion reigns.  Busy changing spaces, seasons of clothes - purging whatever is no longer used or needed! Bags and bags of stuff I probably didn't need in the first place.  My granddaughter ready to give birth any minute - pins and needles.  Little Flora will have a new playmate.  Wondering what kind of world they are being born to experience.  So far they will grow up with two loving parents who believe in self-sustainability - a working ranch in Northern New Mexico a herd of cows, apple trees, chickens and a milking cow named Delores!- and great-grammanana making certain they have plenty of wonderful books and art supplies to keep them happy! Ain't Life amazing?      

 

SAGEBRUSH DREAMING - 60"x36" Work in Progress - top half of the painting is now complete.  Below:Two Works in Progress - Storm & Shadow & La Senda de Taos  

 

Still feeling numbed out by the world we live in now, and thinking perhaps many of my fellow countrymen feel the same.  Reading headlines only of the new book that describes Biden's decline during the last of his Presidency.  This was no surprise - that second term was a mistake!  It is obvious that our current leader has much the same problems in his second term in office.  Accepting that well-used jumbo jet from Qatar will cost tax payers over a billion dollars to upgrade with latest security equipment.  All the changes to life saving science programs especially cancer research are scary; the deportations, cuts to child welfare - without  any demonstrable sign of greater efficiency or tax savings.   Our government needs reform, not utter chaos and purposeful destruction. Waiting for the new Budget.

Am unable to fathom the blindness toward the obvious genocide in Gaza.  Does anyone in their right mind think this is prime real estate on top of total devastation?   Gaza/Ukraine - man's inhumanity to man on steroids.   And, in the dark recesses of my old mind, I do believe Putin has his little beady eyes set on Poland next. Rest easy we all have a perfect right to feel numb, but it is time to recover our will to Resist.  (Making Art is an act of Resistance!) 

Those Cardinals with the tall white mitres, however, got everything right by electing a Pope from my Home Country - the South side of Chicago!  A brilliant ray of Hope, he sounds practical and tough (witness his clear rebuttal of Vance's world vision).  Pope Leo just might be the answer to some of our prayers for a more peaceful world.  Our present world needs the teachings of St. Francis now more than ever!

“The images of peace are ephemeral. The language of peace is subtle. The reasons for peace, the definitions of peace, the very idea of peace have to be invented, and invented again.

Children, everybody, here’s what to do during war: In a time of destruction, create something. A poem. A parade. A community. A school. A vow. A moral principle. One peaceful moment.”

—From THE FIFTH BOOK OF PEACE, Maxine Hong Kingston

Hug someone today - Best to you, Donna 

                                                      In the Studio - Small Works in Progress

WORD PAINTINGS #148 - OUT OF MY MIND

WORD PAINTINGS #148 (How I Came to New Mexico and Learned about Art and Life) - MORNING THOUGHTS

7 May 2025 - This morning's view from my kitchen window...storm clouds receding after two glorious days of rain and snow.  The air is clear - the spring colors are so intense they almost vibrate!  The driest winter ever and we are all so grateful for the moisture!  Heavy snow on the mountains all day yesterday - much of it still there. The view from my front window makes me so damned happy! Hoping the melt will keep the acequias flowing until the heavy afternoon rains during our monsoon season in July.

Back to some serious time at the easel. (Below is my current Work in Progress).  More paints arriving by Friday.  In a way this feels like another one of my New Beginnings.  Fell into a work block last November.  Due to personal and world events I retreated to my "bubble" to regain some perspective.  Quiet time. Resting ones brushes every once in a while is essential to a healthy art life. A fearless inventory waiting for the Path to once again appear.  Stopped watching all cable news.  Picked up some good books.  Listened to Bach.  Thanking my Art Gods for this new energy!  Ah, the joys of Spring!  

Lilias de Taos - in front of the Old Taos News building 25 years ago - saw this man almost every day on his morning walk - a wonderful memory.

My awakening came this week when a friend said that she was stockpiling a few essentials to escape the higher prices.  Lightbulb moment! What about art supplies??? Put off ordering my essential art supplies all winter.  When I logged on to the art supply store all I saw was big bold red letters - "Only one left - only two left - order soon". The tariffs are beginning to take effect  on prices. Be still my heart! One tube of Ivory Black was $60!!! Some Prussian Blue and Burnt Umber will do me just fine, thank you very much. Some of the special Holbein colors that come from China were out completely with no sign of when they might be available.  My view is that art supplies are essential to a healthy society.  These are tools of imagination and creation -  the world is losing some of its color! 

Unvarnished reality - Works in Progress - SAGEBRUSH DREAMING - 60"x36 Original Oil on Belgian Linen - and me at almost 86!  Worked on this ginormus canvas all day today - told a friend that it is the equivalent of giving birth to octuplets!  Making great progress - half the painting is completed as of this afternoon.  Will need some help to adjust my easel so I can finish the lower half of the canvas hopefully by this weekend.  Today my loaded paint brushes took on a life of their own. No hesitation. Good, healthy, strong and colorful strokes. I love when this "out of body" time happens. Will order the frame next week. Sending it to McLarry's Fine Art on Canyon Road, Santa Fe.  (Photo credit: Betty Downes)

Please hug an artist today - ordering art supplies is a real challenge!  Best regards, Donna

      

WORD PAINTINGS #147 - CELEBRATING STILLNESS

WORD PAINTINGS #147 (How I Came to New Mexico and learned about Art and Life) - CELEBRATING STILLNESS 

Studio #125 - BESIDE STILL WATERS (Rio Grande at Pilar, New Mexico) - NEW! 24"x30" Original Oil on Belgian Linen, framed in gold with Linen Liner. Now available at McLarry Fine Art - Santa Fe.

4 December 2024 (Llano Quemado, New Mexico) - Oh my, hasn't this been an interesting year?    Felt numb after the election results came in.  Honestly I am still ashamed that I spent the greater part of 10 years engulfed in chaos and fear. Political chaos and the horrendous predictions from cable newscasters left me limp.  As a result, one morning I woke up determined to ditch cable news!  Close to 30 quiet days now - and the improvement in my day to day life restores my balance.  Almost like taking a long hot shower for days, blissful sleep and happy winter dreams - and a feast of tacos from Taco Bell.  Call me simple, but am finding that life is so much better if I reduce the noise and roll with the punches.

12 December 2024 (Llano Quemado) - Over 30 Days without cable news - and TV news of any kind!!! What is really interesting is that I don't even turn on the TV for a couple of days!!!  What am I missing?  Murders, political mayhem, hours and hour of mind-numbing Christmas commercials....yahdahyahdah!  I'd like to say I'm smarter, perhaps even more spiritual...turns out that my little world is just a helluva lot more peaceful.  Am back at listening to my Audible books while I paint, good music, working my crosswords, exercising my old brain with some matching games on my ipad - and piling up all the books I've been wanting to read before I go to that Big Easel in the Sky - which means I will have to live for another 85 years at the minimum!  

Best news of all - Today "Beside Still Waters" is being delivered to McLarry Gallery in Santa Fe.  Had worked with Chris McLarry for about ten years, and now I am "back home" - safe and sound!  Chris, John Knox his gallery director and my daughter Sarah Hasted visited last month and we all agreed that McLarry Fine Art will be my exclusive sales representative going forward.  https://mclarryfineart.com/donna-clair -18 paintings are now available for purchase.  Stop in and wander through the peaceful rooms filled with outstanding paintings and sculpture! 

Now my job is to enjoy the winter months in the quiet of this house on the Llano. This past month the flocks of migrating birds have been a joy to watch through the big window next to my easel.  A feast of winter clouds blowin' and goin' - each one a possible painting!  Ordering my new supply of paints tomorrow.  Canvases are all prepped and frames are at the ready.  Hibernating - painting - "stillness" is my challenge - the serenity to accept the things I cannot change.  Until next time.....DC

WORD PAINTINGS #146 - FEAR, UNCERTAINTY AND DOUBT

 

WORD PAINTINGS # 147 (How I came to New Mexico and learned about Art and Life) - FEAR, UNCERTAINTY AND DOUBT

Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD) is a manipulative propaganda tactic used in sales, marketing, public relations, politics, polling, and cults. FUD is generally a strategy to influence perception by disseminating negative and dubious or false information, and is a manifestation of the appeal to fear - Wikipedia

12 November 2024 - Even though cable newscasters tell us we have never been here before - it is the Fear stoked by politicians and cable news that immobilizes us!   Yesterday was Veteran's day and I remembered my uncles Alvin Hermesdorf who fought  bravely in the Battle of the Bulge; Uncle Roy Knoll who fought alongside the British in Burma and Calcutta. Hitler invaded  the port of Gdansk, Poland, on September 1st 1939 - I was born two days later.  Am certain that the months, perhaps years before the conflict began my family sat around the kitchen table, elbows on much worn flowered tablecloths, and discussed all the "What-ifs" leading up to the invasion.  There were still  relatives in Gdansk and inland Poland. Their worst fears grew and came to fruition as ordinary worlds exploded. 

No one would ever be the same!  Battles, invasions, Omaha Beach, family separations, losses of life, relocations in Europe, food shortages, prison camps, concentration camps -  immense suffering and unbelievable atrocities!!!  These were the stories of the first six years of my life. What I remember most is the FEAR!  Adult fears were magnified a thousand times in my child's mind.  We all gathered around the radio to listen to President Roosevelt's Fireside chats.  Letters from Uncle Roy telling me that there were huge snakes under the hammock where he slept and his best British buddy had been killed in battle the day before.  I sent him letters and drawings and my child mind could only imagine what "being in danger" meant, but I was seriously afraid of losing him.Let us not forget the atomic bomb!  Hiroshima and Nagasaki!!! As young children we had "bomb drills" and hid under our desks to protect us from an enemy attack!  There were city wide sirens blaring - warnings to find a safe place to hide.  Not much comfort after seeing the rubble of the two cities in Japan!  Today our "babies" wear bullet-proof backpacks to school and are terrified by regular "active shooter" drills. They and their Moms and Dads live in constant fear.

The Japanese surrendered on Sept. 2 1945  Then came the announcement that the Big War was over!!! I was six years old and  vividly remember how we celebrated VJ Day at our house on Whipple Street in Chicago!  My uncles returned searching for their places among families and friends. They were strangers - their old lives were happy memories. Everything had changed, they were forever changed. No longer young and beautiful they had returned from the pits of hell only to begin again at the beginning, while dealing with nightmares and unimaginable memories of bombs and bullets.

And then came Vietnam!!! The same horrific consequences of fighting a war in a land no one even knew existed until they were drafted!  More losses and atrocities - years of FEAR! Anti-war demonstrations tore this country apart - are you old enough to remember Kent State? Henry Kissinger regularly on TV outlining all the reasons why we are in another "necessary" war! "Remember the secret invasion of Cambodia?  Young soldiers taken to prison camps and tortured, Agent Orange, Mai  Lai massacre - Remember?   Our veterans returned to be ignored and ostracized - some of whom are still struggling or died by suicide!

Can the modern newscasters even imagine the state of our world at war?  I sincerely doubt that they have any idea of what it was like to live in those times.  Instead they help to scare the bejeezus out of little old ladies who believe they will suffer at the hands of mad Haitians!  Modern day media is a money-making proposition and our once and future king is the centerpiece for most of our fear and confusion.  Truth-telling is a total stranger to many politicians and some media pundits. Where is Walter Cronkite when you need him?

Sadly our lives are governed by our fears! For some eerily strange reason, this new administration is too ambitious and terribly messy.  Instead I believe it will fail under the weight of  lofty goals to change the world order into their bleached and entitled image of themselves. No doubt there will be severe consequences as a result of the passionate advocacy for their 2025 Project.  Enacting their policies will affect everyone in  this country, including their own constituents - much to the shock and surprise of many voters - you know who they are! The disruptions will be broad and severe and the economic policies will cause great hardship. They have caught the car. 

The results of this election changed our country Forever!! What the agents of change have forgotten is the strength and power of the American people.   WE ARE SURVIVORS!!!!  The Great Depression, WWII, Korea, Vietnam - we have met each challenge with fierce bravery and have emerged from the darkness of then and we will emerge from the darkness of now!!!

 

WORD PAINTINGS #145 - - GONE TO SANCTUARY

 

"WINTER DREAMS" (Llano Quemado - Truchas, N.M. - The road to the horse ranch)

 WORD PAINTINGS # 146 - Llano Quemado, New Mexico 

"Forward and backward I have gone and for me it has been an immense journey.....Perhaps there is no meaning in it at all, the thought went on inside of me,save that of the journey itself, so far as men can see.  It has altered with the chances of life, and the chances brought us here; but it was a good journey - long, perhaps - but a good journey under a pleasant sun. Do not look for the purpose."  Loren Eiseley, Naturalist - The Immense Journey

4 November 2024 - Heavy snow clouds on the mountain this morning.  Snow on the foothills across the field from my window.  Predictions for two days of snow.. What a blessing.  The Almanac forecasts a La Nina winter, which usually means a very dry season; this early storm is a very welcome surprise!  

Learned to love the quiet isolation of a winter storm when I lived on the horse ranch in Truchas.  A panic attack at first - no noise, no goings or comings - just me, myself and I - plus piles of canvas, fat tubes of paint and many brushes large and small.

6 November 2024 - Yes, shocked and saddened by the results of the election.  What now? How can we prepare for Project 2025 and all the changes and chaos to come? Darkness - retribution! Real life is full of both good and bad surprises - some heavy-duty shocks! What to do? Where to turn? How to cope?  I looked around my studio and NOTHING HAD CHANGED!  A blessed numbness set in and I realized that the only changes I could make were in my own mind, my own way of dealing with darkness - just get through it one day at a time.  Focus on ordinary things that bring peace and joy, create something, practice kindness - don't let them win.  Deciding to move forward - I don't have a map to lead me out of this wilderness - need to make a list to find my way.... 

Walk into the Storm eyes wide open! When in doubt, stock up the pantry!   Wednesday is grocery day - up early to make my list.  Daughter is stranded in New York and upset about election news.  Unable to return due to 3-day heavy snows predicted - over 12 inches.  Sent grocery list to my helper - blizzard began while he was at store.  Felt lucky to be stocked up. Was once stranded on the horse ranch over two weeks - it was the holiday season, schools were closed and the plows didn't come through until after the New Year. Had a little Sears freezer stocked with homemade soups and essentials.  The wood pile was low.  Breathed a big sigh of relief to see that big snow plow huffin' and puffin' down that narrow dirt road!!!

Remembering the catastrophic Chicago snowstorm of 1966. 46" snowdrifts in the front yard. My twins were 3 weeks old, my son 18 months. Their dad was supposed to bring groceries. No food in the house, no formula for the babies.  Beyond fear.  A total stranger showed up at my door asked me what I needed. He walked about a mile with with a sled loaded with two cases of Similac. That man was my very shy next door neighbor - my hero.  In these times I am reminded of Miracles - and I still Believe that we will get through this time!

Organize my thoughts. clear my mind! Stop watching the news. Don't read the headlines. Making piles of all my favorite books - each one helped me through my dark days.  Maxine Hong Kingston The Fifth Book of Peace, Thomas Merton, Behaving as if the God in All Life Mattered! Words that calm and uplift my spirits!Focus on Today.  Make some art! Order my paints to get me through the winter.  About 12 canvases already have images assigned to them in my mind - even the frames are ordered.  Will just keep on keeping on. When in doubt, get very quiet - hunker down. Don't give in to fear!!!  Amidst the chaos, put up a "do not disturb" sign, create your own little corner of peace.  CELEBRATE THE ORDINARY!!!

Create Sanctuary!

WORD PAINTINGS #144 - GUATEMALA 1991 PART V - TRUTH AND CONSEQUENCES

                                    Bearers of Light - Easter 1991 -Chichicastenango, Guatemala

 

 (How I Came to New Mexico and learned about Art and Life) - Had been angry with Anthony Bourdain ever since I heard the announcement of his suicide.  What a waste! He had it all.  Truth is he had seen it all and  finally the world he witnessed became too much for him.  Remembering one episode where he visited another forlorn and  war- ravaged country, trying to make sense of the devastation, his weariness was palpable.  After writing about my experiences in Guatemala recently, I  understand why he became too weary.  He saw the world with open eyes. ! It isn't always pretty, is it? 

My blissful ignorance followed me home.to my little nest in Taos. I was clueless! Naively I still believed that my country was that shining city on the hill! Deciding to know the truth of my experience, I bought books - lots and lots of books!  The story of Rigoberta Menchu hit hard. She became an activist for indigenous rights after her entire family was either murdered or disappeared. In 1992 she was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. Several years later we met when she lectured here in Taos. She is still one of my heroes - I stand in awe of her courage.. The civil war in Guatemala was called the Silent Holocaust and lasted for over 30 years. Over 200,000 people were either murdered or disappeared.  One of the darkest years of the "war" was 1991!! 

Sadly all my red, white and blue blinders were removed by the books I bought and read. To quote Sr. Diane Ortiz  (The Blindfold's Eyes)...."Maybe I survived simply because I am a U.S citizen.  But because of that very privilege, I have a huge responsibility.  The U.S. Government funded, trained and equipped the Guatemalan death squads - my torturers themselves.  The United States was the Guatemala army's partner in a covert war against a small opposition force -  a war the United Nations would later declare genocidal.  I am answerable for what my country has done and is doing and is likely to do, as the world's only "superpower". I have a responsibility to be vigilant and speak out."  "Don't forget. Even if you can't see the light, it's there."  

Everyone responds to truth in their own way. Truth can break your heart. My first reaction was a kind of numbness as I began to go through my huge pile of books. School of the Americas in the U.S. indeed trained the Guatemalan military.....knowledge hurts!  Denial was my first reaction.  There was a time that I believed that the war in Vietnam was just and our invasion of Iraq was necessary.  I didn't know what I didn't know until my eyes were opened by my Great Adventure! 

Years later I have come to a certain peace knowing that I have absolutely no power to change the world.   In reality I think of all the lives affected by the insanity of war...the inhumanity, the waste of all that once was promising and beautiful.

It took seven years for me to produce my first and only paintings from Guatemala with the full knowledge that I wasn't doing them for the money or prestige.  I had changed and my work changed with me.   Like the Velveteen Rabbit, I started to become real (still have some way to go)! Following Forrest's advice I recalled the honesty I felt from the Wyeth paintings in his exhibit at the Art Institute of Chicago in 1967.  Slowly some honesty crept into my work.  Larger canvases - open spaces - peace.

My disenchantment with galleries and the art world grew and I backed away slowly.  Roaming became a habit.  A small lunch, my camera and a spare flannel shirt and I was off to places unknown in my little blue Dodge Dakota pick-up truck. Falling in love with all the small villages on the High Road all over again and seeing them in a new light I recovered my sense of Place.  They are a part of me. One afternoon in Amalia.  a surprise detour on a little dirt road led to open spaces so silent that I heard the sound of bird wings overhead.  I am grounded. My true "home" is in these mountains. So grateful. DC 

WORD PAINTINGS #143 - GUATEMALA 1991 PART IV - INCIDENTS AT COPAN

WORD PAINTINGS #143 (How I came to New Mexico and learned about Life and Art) - GUATEMALA 1991 PART IV - INCIDENTS AT COPAN

5 May 2024 (Llano Quemado, New Mexico) It is a mystery to me why this past Easter Season brought back so many vivid memories of my trip to Guatemala... the magnificent processions, the colorful village life, the ever present sense of danger. This past month I have read most of The Blindfold's Eye by Sister Dianna Ortiz, the Ursuline nun kidnapped from Posada de Belen  in November 1989. The intensity of that trip returned to me as I read the of her courage and resilience. For a time I was back in that cold damp room at La Posada and imagined her presence in that same place.  Have been reluctant to share this last part of my "photo tour".  Am certain that what is happening in Palestine has much to do with my vivid recollections from thirty-three years ago.

HONDURAS - COPAN - Our bus stopped at a military checkpoint at the border between Guatemala and Honduras.   It was a small building with an open door and a large desk. Behind the desk was an older man surrounded by three young men with guns. Another young man with an AK47 stood guard at the door. We were instructed to present our papers to the comandante for his approval.

Passports stamped and approved, we stood outside the hut to wait for another bus to take us to the ruins at Copan. Directly in front of me was a young woman in a light summer dress carrying some parcels. The man with the gun stood close beside her and with his gun touched her leg and began to lift her skirt.  Her body stiffened but she continued to look straight ahead. The area was quite crowded and the three of us seemed to morph into a unit - he smirked, she stiffened with palpable fear and I stared in disbelief at the gun rising on her leg. The bus arrived and we were on our merry way to visit the ruins at Copan.

Considering the bloody warfare that took place here so long ago, Copan was incredibly peaceful and serene compared to the noise of Guatemala City.  The pyramid towered over the  smaller structures and stelae.  A very large round ceremonial stone was carved with the images of thirteen kings, homage to the ruling dynasties.  I was standing in the very center of the Forest of Kings! The ruins are stark and overwhelming.   In place for centuries fierce sculpted faces jutted and stared from long stone walls. One of our guides pointed in the direction of the river and said that thousands of farmers and laborers had once lived there. It was easy to imagine the bustle of community needed to support the kings that once ruled Copan.  Farmers, stone carvers, builders, priests, astronomers and scribes...all necessary to keep this once powerful city-state thriving in all its glory! At the Inscription Staircase I floated off again to wander alone.  Separating myself in this way intensified my experience.   

Transported by the stories of the ancient Maya, I wondered what earthly magic conspired to bring me to this place!    Does anyone remember the powerful paintings in National Geographic of the king sitting atop the pyramid looking down on the scene below? If one of the guides announced that they were hiring archaeological helpers, I would have been the first to raise my hand!  Enthralled by the Mysteries yet to be uncovered, hoped that someone would step up, hand me a sun hat, a little shovel, some potent bug spray and told me where to start digging!

Sadly later that afternoon we were again on our way back to Guatemala.  Perhaps the quiet of the day silenced the normal buzz of chatter. The atmosphere on our return was quite subdued.  We were coming to the end of a whirlwind tour of a very mysterious adventure. Heading into a golden sunset, it was a perfect ending to this trip! The rutted dirt road had a gentle rocking effect and a few fellow adventurers had closed their eyes and nodded off.  Suddenly the bus jerked to a screeching stop.  Silhouetted against the sun  and blocking the road stood six men with machine guns.  One man separated from their group.  Our bus driver opened the door and was instructed to collect all our papers which we handed over. He was then sent down the aisle telling each of us to give a "ransom" and we would be released to go on our way.  After giving up a few quetzales, I looked through the window to my right at a steep drop off. Who would miss a busload of sweaty old Americans? Once the "banditos" had their money in hand, they returned our papers.  Definitely an Indiana Jones experience! 

Even though it was the same dark place, protected by men with machine guns, the airport in Guatemala City was strangely welcoming.  I lugged my duffel bag of weavings onto the plane and settled in for the long ride home.  What had just happened?  I slept one night in a cloud forest, listened to howler monkeys and spent one afternoon searching the canopy for quetzal birds....colorful markets, ancient ruins....and Easter Sunday in Chichicastenango!!  Completely ignorant to the truth of my experiences,  I spent the next years learning from many books and films about the brutal "civil" war.  It was seven years before I could do a very limited series of oil paintings.  I understood the tension and fear I felt all throughout the trip. Finally the paintings became a sincere homage to the people of Guatemala. DC

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NOTES: "Copán is thought to have been inhabited as early as 2000 BC, despite the fact that there is sparse evidence to this effect. It was certainly at its peak between 300 AD and 900 AD, when it was the capital of an extensive kingdom in the southernmost Maya area and home to at least 20,000 people. The extensive stelae found at Copán give us a detailed description of the city’s history.

In the eighth century AD, Copán experienced a significant military defeat when its leader, the otherwise glorious Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil, was captured and beheaded by the rulers of the city of Quirigua in what is now Guatemala. Copán collapsed relatively suddenly in the early 9th century: it seems that a combination of poor agricultural land, malnutrition and disease meant the population was ravaged.

Copán is often extremely quiet: the border crossing deters many less hardy tourists, and it’s a corner of Honduras that not many visit otherwise. Having the site to yourself is a particular treat – there’s quite a bit of ground to cover, and some of the ruins are still on the edge of the jungle."

"Copan's Hieroglyphic Stairway, is the longest and perhaps the most famous inscription in the Maya area. It was the most significant feature of Outstanding Universal Value cited by UNESCO for designating Copan a World Heritage Site in 1980. It records the dynastic history of the Copan’s 5^th to 8^th century rulers carved on more than 1100 glyph blocks spanning 63 steps. A first shorter version was dedicated to commemorate Ruler 12 and mentions his burial. Additions to that version were dedicated in 756 CE. 

John Lloyd Stephens, an American explorer and railway builder, was born Nov. 28, 1805. In 1839, Stephens went to Central America with artist and architect Frederick Catherwood to investigate rumors of ancient ruins. They went first to Copán, then to Palenque and three dozen more sites. They found ruins in abundance. Catherwood recorded the glyphs and carvings as accurately as if he had a camera. What makes the pair special in the annals of Mesoamerican archaeology is that they recognized almost immediately that the ruins must have been built by native Mesoamericans and not by European invaders, as everyone else seemed to assume. They also realized that since the living Mayas had no such abilities or inclinations, the builders must have lived long ago, and the history of Central America must go back much further than anyone imagined.